For centuries, the lands of Glengarry, stretching from Loch Oich almost to the western seaboard at Loch Hourn, were the territories of the MacDonnells of Glengarry. the chiefs lived in the now ruined Invergarry Castle until the Jacobite rising of 1745-46 and later in 'Glengarie's House' built on a site nearby. As a result of the large emigrations, mainly to Canada, in the late 18th and early 19th century, there are no descendants of those MacDonnells now living in the glen. Any of the old settlements are now in ruins, there are still places of interest in the area, many built by the Ellice family who purchased the Glengarry and Glenquoich estates early in the 19th century and acted as benevolent 'lairds' for many years.
The ruin of Invergarry Castle stands on Creagan An Fhitich, the raven's Rock, in the grounds of the Glengarry Castle Hotel, overlooking Loch Oich. The castle was burnt down in both Jacobite Risings, in 1715 and again after the '45. Prince charles Edward stayed there both before and after Culloden. His army marched from Aberchalder, further down the loch, over the Corryarrarick pass on their way down south, when they were still hopeful of victory.
This is near Kilfinnan Farm on the western shores of Loch Lochy. The Church of St. Finnan, a disciple of St. Columba, once stood here. It was burned down in 1460. Here also is the burial ground and mausoleum of the MacDonells of Glengarry, whose last great chief, Alastair Randalson, was buried here in 1828.
The inscription on this monument, erected here in 1812 by the Glengarry chief, is in four languages - Gaelic, Latin, French and English. In 1665, the heads of the seven murderers of the family of Keppoch were washed in the well before being presented to the Clan chief, at Invergarry Castle. The heads were reputedly buried in a samll glade a short distance east of the castle.
General Wade's roads were built during the 18th century, at the time when most roads were only rough tracks. Although this was to facilitate the movement of troops who were based at Fort Augustus and Fort William after the '45, they turned out to be of great benefit to the population. Part of one road can still be seen, running along the east bank of Loch Oich for approximately 4 miles. This road makes a very pleasant walk, starting at the Great Glen Water Park and ending just beyond Aberchalder Farm.
This bridge which crosses the River Oich was built about 1821 by James Drtedge, a brewer turned engineer from Bath. It was then part of the main road. It was later known as the Queen Victoria Bridge after the Queen journeyed through Invergarry and over the bridge. The bridge has recently been restored by Historic Scotland. Nearby, between the present road and the River Oich are graves of Frasers of Lovat who lost their lives at the Battle of the shirts, so called because in heat of battle, the men took off their plaids and fought only in their shirts.
This battle took place on a field at the north-east end of loch lochy in july 1544. The combatants were MacDonalds, MacDonnells and Camerons, numbering some six hundred against a party of about half that size, chiefly Frasers, with a small number of Grants. The battle resulted in a crushing defeat for the Frasers with few of their clansmen escaping death or injury.
This chapel was built in 1938 as a replacement for St. Margaret's Chapel, Mandally, a wooden building which was demolished because it was unsafe. Services at St. Finnan's are now held weekly.
Beside the site of the present Invergarry Store, (built by the Ellices, in 1878) was a mill, now converted into a cottage. It was built in the latter half of the 18th century and used mainly for the milling of oats. A funnel kiln for drying the grain occupied one thired of the building to the west. The undershot mill wheel was situated at the east end.
Up Aldernaig Burn, on the north-east side, overlooking the mill, this cairn was erected in 19025 by the residents of Glengarry. This is a pleasant walk and there is a good view from the cairn.
An attractive, not over strenuous, round walk. Remains of an old settlement can be seen at the north end of the loch. This site was abandoned in 1802 when the residents emigrated to Canada. A notorious resident in the early 17th century was Alan MacRanald of the Red Jacket, a relative of the Glengarry chief. Much involved in the clan fueds of the time, he built himself an island retreat in the loch which is visible today and has a single yew tree growing on it.
This is a Roman Catholic graveyard. There was possibly a church here but when the Invergarry Dam was built part of this area was flooded and further investigation is now difficult. The oldest headstone inscription to be identified is 1822. Donan, who was a follower of Columba, from Iona, set up a church cell on this site, which is believed to be the oldest in the glen.
From around 1840, the principal landowners haqve been the Ellice family. They came originally from Aberdeen-shire and made a considerate fortune trading in America and Canada, principally in the fur trade.
Alexander Ellice's son, Edward, then returned to buy Glengarry estates from the Trustess of the MacDonnell chiefs, the estate having become heavily in debt. The Rt. Hon. Edward Ellice (always known as 'The Bear' because of his connections with fur trade and his wiliness) bought firstly, Glenquoich estate at the western end of Glengarry, and secondly, Glengarry estate which included Invergarry and the lands around Loch Oich and Loch Garry. Most of the cottages in the village (previously estate cottages) and the following buildings were built by Ellice.
The mansion house (architect david Bryce) was built between 1866 and 1869 by Edward Ellice, Junior, and was the home of the Ellices until 1926. It was subsequently owned by H.O. Wills (the tobacco family), Sir Mortimer Singer (whose mistress, Isadora Duncan, was said to have danced on the lawn in front of the house, the Goodbody family and the North of Scotland Hydro Electric Board and left in a very poor state. In 1959, it was then purchased by the Cameron sisters from Glen Nevis. Over the years the MacCallum family have transformed the house into a fine hotel with beautiful grounds, now called Glengarry Castle Hotel.
the railway, which ran from Spean Bridge to the Pier at Fort Augustus, was opened in July 1903 by Mrs Margaret Ellice of Glengarry who was presented with a gold whistle to give right of way for the departure of the first train. The line closed in october 1911 but was reopened in October 1913. The railway finally closed in October 1946.
The station buildings followed the Swiss style with a framework of wood and stone base faced with tapered wood shingles. The remains of Invergarry station can still be seen near the Water Park.
Sited on the old road this bridge dates from the building of the Caledonian Canal, c 1822. It ceased to be used as a main road bridge in 1932 when the new road was built. The bridge may have been preceded by a wooden bridge, on the site of the present Mandally footbridge, which was carried away in the flood of 1892.
The war memorial was erected in 1922. A massive block of granite was moved from the hill to the present site which used to be the main road junction. Recorded here are the names of the three young sons of the Ellice family, killed in the Great war of 1914-1918. Further names were added after the Second World War.
Bottles were produced on a site close to the old bridge.
The estate joiner produced gas from coal brought to this site from Port MacDonnell. It was piped to Invergarry House where the naked flame, no mantles, was used for lighting until 1924, when generators were installed for electricity.
This was the loading pier for supplies from the steamer fo Invergarry House and the site of a former sawmill and bobbin factory, at the mouth of the river Garry.
The old hall was a timber building with a veranda on one side to shelter bicycles. It was the scene of many dances, concerts and ceilidhs and also the venue for the Literary and Social club founded in 1894. (The new village hall was built in 1958 further along the road).
this was in a cottage to the right of the present filling station.
The stables of the previous old Inn, Tigh Mhoil, remain on this site. John Anderson, an old friend of Robert burns, retired here to live with his daughter who had married the innkeeper. Burns wrote 'John Anderson, my Jo' for his friend, after his visit here. John Anderson is buried in Kilchuimen Cemetery, Fort Augustus. The present hotel was built by the Ellices in 1885.
Built in 1864 by Janie ellice, using local granite. The church was enlarged and an organ installed in 1896 by the second Mrs Ellice. Services are held in rotation with Tomdoun and Fort Augustus, and the minister is based in Fort Augustus
Built in 1868, extended in 1954 and extensively renovated in 1979, the building originally housed one classroom, which ran the complete length of the building, together with a small library area. The original clock can be seen, the mechanism of which drives two faces, both inside and out. There were other schools at Glenquoich, Inchlaggan, Tomcarry and Laggan up until the early 1900s. There was also a school at Kingie at the time of the Hydro encampment which was in use until 1971.
This acted as a bank until 1947 when all business was transferred to Fort Augustus.
This was built in 1880 by the Ellice family but was closed in 1950. It is now a private house.
The first iron to be smelted in Scotland is reputed to have been produced at Alt a Bhoira Burn, which lies along the Loch Garry road towards Ardochy. Another iron works was sited along Mandally to the west of the smithy and in 1727 there was also an iron works near the river, worked by Thomas Rawlinson while he lived at Invergarry Castle.
Now a private house renamed Glengarry Lodge. It was built in 1864 at the same time as the church and acted as Manse until 1967 when Glengarry could no longer sustain its own minister.
Also built in 1864 by the Ellices for retired estate workers, these cottages were rent free until 1974 when they were sold.
The present building has no school connection but was built in 1872 on the site of the oldest recorded school in the Glen. This was the premises of the village shoemaker.
This was along Mandally road. The blacksmith repaired farm implements and gate hinges as well as shoeing horses. The smithy was in use up until 1960.
This was closed in 1939 after being in use for 70 years.
Built before 1871, this was home of the factorsto the Ellice estate, lived in for over 30 years by George Malcolm, the laird's right hand man, who wielded considerable power and influence and was much respected.
This was donated to the community by Mr russell Ellice of Aberchalder in 1948 and was made into a playing field in 1968 by the 48th Regiment of the Royal Engineers. Principally used for the ancient highland game of shinty, it is also the venue for the Invergarry highland games which take place in July every year.
Further up the Glen, most of the standing houses and buildings were built by the Ellices. 'Bear' Ellice died at Ardochy Lodge in 1863. Before the emigrationsthere were settlements on both sides of the loch and river up to Kingie. Some of these ruins can still be seen.
The present hotel was built by the Ellices in 1895 near the site of the old inn, and for many years was run by the Grant family. The old inn was well known, placed as it was at the junction of the road to the Loch Hourn fishing groundsand the old drovers' road to Kintailand Skye, used by cattle on their way to the southern markets. Tomdoun has always been well-loved by fishers, stalkers and walkers and still boasts great catches. At one time the Hotel held the British record for the largest trout and the largest artic char, caught from the river and loch nearby.
Built in 1865 by the Ellice family as a Missuion Chapel and enlarged in 1883 by the second Mrs Ellice, this beautiful and peaceful little church still holds one service a month. In 1992, it was restored with the help of friends and the community. Visitors are very welcome. Opposite the church, a grass track, known as the Prince's Walk, runs down to the River Garry where bonnie Prince Charlie crossed in his flight from the redcoats after Culloden.
Continue along this road to the hamlet of Kingie where the remains of a huge shed can be seen. This was built to provide a canteen, accommodation and entertainment for the 3000 strong workforce needed for the building of the Quoich Dam in 1950.
'Bear' Ellice's Glenquoich Lodge now lies buried beneath the waters of Loch Quoich after the Hydro Electric scheme raised the levels of water by 90 feet in 1953. Rhododendrons on either side of the road mark the site of the old gardens.
The wild and beautiful single track road, said to represent every type of scenery to be found in Scotland, finally winds its way down to Kinlochhourn which is 25 miles from Invergarry.